Making Drawer Boxes With Kreg Jig

Cook Shiled · Monday, 15 November 2021

Making drawers with pocket screws

I want to make a few drawers with 1/2 inch baltic birch. It would be interesting to hear what you folks think about building drawers with Kreg pocket screws.
Also, do you put in a 1/4 inch bottom or pocket screw 1/2 inch baltic birch in the bottom?

Would they be long lasting?

Thanks

Steve Bolton
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The Kreg manual specifically notes that they do not recommend joining 1/2" to 1/2" material, but if you do, use the 1" screw. I tried it on some drawer boxes made from BB and the points were right at the surface. I decided against it
yes, you can pocket hole screw 1/2" birch ply together! just remember to change the depth setting on your jig and to use shorter screws. i usually dado the drawer bottom but you could pocket screw them in as well. don't forget to overlap the drawer sides over the the drawer front and back. the pocket screws should go in the fronts and backs so that they remain hidden as long as you're using a false drawer front to cover up the drawer front.
1/2 material is too small for this. On the other question, 1/8 drawer bottom are plenty unless they are going to have real heavy things in them. You didn't say what these drawers are for... might help with the answer.

Dewey

"Everything is better with Inlay or Marquetry!"
I have made many drawers for shop cabinets this way. None have ever failed over the years. 1/2" BB ply, 1" pan head coarse thread PH screws, front and back glued and screwed between the sides, 1/4" BB ply bottoms in 1/4" dado 3/8" up from the bottom. Quick and easy, strong and long lasting so far . . . .
If I'm not in a hurry I use a locking drawer joint with just glue.

Take me to the hotel - Baggage gone, oh well . . .
drawers would be for shop or utility purposes. Not heirloom funiture (which I can't build anyway).
Which drawer lock bit do you use/recommend?

Thanks

sb
For shop cabinets go ahead. If it doesn't work it will be a lesson to improve upon.

Dewey

"Everything is better with Inlay or Marquetry!"
Don't give up on the pocket screwed drawers yet! There is no faster way to make utility or kitchen drawers. 1/2" baltic birch will work fine with pan head screws. I suspect the non-Baltic ply may be a little thinner. The washer head screws are too big of diameter to set flush with the surface.
Drill at least 3-4 holes and put two right angle clamps per joint, then screw the remaining holes. Absolutely tune the tablesaw blade to perfectly vertical. Any deviation shows up when the four joints flush up.

1/4" floors in a groove work well. Undersizing the back and sliding the floor last makes finishing a breeze.
The lower 2 drawer bottoms are 1/2" ply because they hold routers and drills etc. the top 2 are have 1/4" ply bottoms and they hold squares, chisels etc. Entire box is pocket screwed (no glue). Drawer sides are 1/2" ply, pocket screwed front & rear and inset 1/2" for the slides. All bottoms float, sit in a 1/8" deep dado and can be replaced from the back. So far it's holding up fine in the shop.

Last edited by Joe Scharle; 12-23-2008 at 12:21 PM.
Thank for the info. Actually, the baltic birch is just a little under 1/2 inch.
Thanks for the feedback.

Steve Bolton
Originally Posted by Steven Bolton

Which drawer lock bit do you use/recommend?

I've used some that cost about $10 less than the Whiteside #3347 but at under $30 (at Woodpeckers or Holbren), it lasts many times longer. Due to the interlocking profile these can only be sharpened so much. I have been giving this one a bit of a touch-up now and again and have yet to think about a full sharpening.
P.s. Holbren gives SMC folks a 10% discount with the code 'SMC10'

Take me to the hotel - Baggage gone, oh well . . .
I have begun to use this method for utility drawers and like the easy assembly. Once you get the drill stop set correctly (and marked for future projects), it's very easy and fast. Obviously, this is for drawers that utilize false fronts...but that's pretty much every drawer I build. You do need the shorter screws, however...

--

The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
1/2 plywood sides, front and back - butt joints - 1/2 inch bottom flush all around not in a slot - all joints glued and then stapled with 1 3/4 inch narrow crown staples. Make a drawer in 5 minutes that will last your lifetime. Narrow crown staples have amazing holding power - you can't pull them out. The 2 legs go in different directions and twist locking themselves in. I made a couple of test butt joints - clamped in my vise and pulled - the plywood broke, the staples didn't move.
Drawer Construction

This method is quick and easy. The bottom is locked in on all four sides. There is no reason to make the bottom removable if it is made from plywood. Many moons ago, the bottoms were made of solid wood and would eventually split. They were made removable so they could be repaired. This is no longer a problem when using plywood.
The front, rear and sides are glued and brad nailed together.
A solid front is then added when finished. If I am going to use a drawer pull with 2 screws, that will be all I use to hold the drawer front on place.
If I use a drawer pull with 1 screw, then I will use the one screw and run 2 brad nails in from the rear. This will stabilize the drawer front and still be easy to remove if desired.

Last edited by Tony Bilello; 12-22-2008 at 11:50 PM.

Retired, living and cruising full-time on my boat.
Currently on the Little Tennessee River near Knoxville
How do you put the Crown staples in? Air nailer?
SB