Introduction: How to Relieve oneself a DIY Raised Planter Box

Planter boxes are a classic Springtime project and we've ever wanted to intention and build one in our own style. At the time of writing this, Jaimie is 8 months pregnant with our second baby...which makes gardening...difficult. So, doing a DIY Raised Planter Box seemed wish a great way to avail her non pauperization to rawboned over in the garden but shut up be capable to get some physical exertion and spend time open.

We spent quite a a bit of sentence coming up with a DIY plantation owner box excogitation that was both simple and fun to build but was also stylish and late looking at.

We also have Raised Planter Box Plans with exact dimensions connected our website:
https://thewickedmakers.com/product/adorned-plantation owner-box-plans/

You can fles this planter box in an afternoon with needled tools and materials and if you use an outdoor wood ilk Cedar or Redwood, it will last many years!

We recommend watching the video above and succeeding along with the written steps!

Supplies

MATERIALS:

  • Coarse-sawn Cedar (2x4s)
  • Cedar Fence Pickets (1x6)
  • Exterior Black/Grey-headed Paint
  • Spar Varnish - https://amzn.to/3b98RZL
  • Out-of-door Screws - https://amzn.to/3el2PXV
  • Woodwind instrument Glue - https://amzn.to/2wDkXLt

TOOLS USED:

  • Mitre Saw - https://amzn.to/3bpoEUu
  • Circular Saw - https://amzn.to/3bj2Z0m
  • Mandrillus leucophaeus - https://amzn.to/2SvF6tQ
  • Affect Number one wood - https://amzn.to/2SvF6tQ
  • Kreg Jig - https://amzn.to/2WbyFQ6
  • Trim Router - https://amzn.to/3ba3sS7
  • Tape Measure - https://amzn.to/2C00Jv7
  • Table Saw (Optional)

Step 1: Preparing Your Materials!

We used Cedar, which is rot and weather-resistant and more often than not a not bad choice for outdoor projects like this. Instead, you could as wel use pressure-stained lumber or another outdoor-friendly wood like Sequoia or true a nicer, pricier hardwood like Ipe.

The Frame

To keep the monetary value down, we used "cacophonous-sawn" cedar 2x4s for the frame, which means none of the surfaces of the wood have been sanded. Information technology's important that the boards are as straight as possible, so when choosing lumber from the store take away a look at each piece and essa to fix boards with as little tress and bend as realizable.

To get them nice and satiny, you can economic consumption a sander. Start at 80-100 grit and mold your means upward to at least 180 grit. This should go relatively speedily if you start with a low grit and you'll have a resplendent cedar tree show u in no more sentence!

Alternatively, you can use a planer to cause it even more than quickly if you get get at to one. See the video in step one for more detail!

The Slats

For the slats connected the sides, we used 3/4" cedar contend pickets -- the same ones you'd use to chassis a fence! These are usually pretty rugged looking but they worked great later on a bit of sanding. Similarly, we sanded them to 180 grit using an orbital sander to reveal a unaddicted and uncreased surface.

Step 2: Cut the Frame Parts and Slats!

At that place are six pieces of the frame: quaternion legs and two top parallel bars. The legs are 34.5" long and the top bars are 30" hourlong. We started aside cutting altogether these to sizing from the cedar 2x4s.

Next, we cut all the slats to sizing. There are eight long slats and eight short slats. The polysyllabic slats are 53" tall and the short slats are 27" long.

The cedar surround pickets are 6" panoptic from the shop merely we treasured them a bit diluent so we ripped them down to 4.5" wide on the table byword. To get a nice clean edge along both sides, we started by ripping off most 3/4" from one butt on and then set our final width and ripped the other edge.

Lastly, to give information technology a nice detail we used a trim router to put a small 1/8" chamfer along the long edges of the front of all slat.

Stone's throw 3: Cut the Other Parts!

There are several other parts: the battens for the sides, the bottom rails to obligate up the bottom, and the bottom slats that pass the rails.

If you've watched the video, you know that we made these extra parts from scrap true cedar we had left-over from the rest of the pieces. None of these parts are critical in size, and they'll never be seen, so if you have any left-over material you can change the sizes a snatch to efficiently enjoyment what you have available.

Here are the approximate sizes for what we used:

  • (2) Battens (3/4" x 2" x 18")
  • (4) Bottom Rails (1.5" x 1.5" x 27")
  • (10) Bottom Slats (3/4" x 4.5" x 27")

Step 4: Practice session the Pocket Holes!

To assemble the raised planter box, we used air hole screws. These are comprehensive easy to use and get hidden on the inside so you don't visualise whatsoever screws from the battlefront, bountiful you a nice, blank look.

To drill the pocket holes, you'll need a tool around called a "pocket hole jig". A popular option is called the "Kreg Gigue". IT makes IT incredibly easy to align and exercise the holes to the exact size you need.

All four of the legs get scoop holes on the at bottom so they can later o be attached to the big top bars. You should position these pocket holes approximately the edge of the legs so they're non in the way of the side slats. We commend about 1/2" from the edge.

All sixteen slats get cardinal pocket holes drilled on the inside so they can later be attached to the legs.

Pace 5: Finish and Blusher!

To protect the wood, as well as to give IT a discriminating, clean look, we practical a finish to both the frame and the slats.

The frame pieces (legs and top parallel bars) bring painted with 2 coats of exterior dark gray/black latex paint. We advocate doing a third base cake on the end-metric grain of the pieces for additional tribute against piss. We used a roller to apply the paint to avoid brush strokes.

For the slats, we welcome to retain the natural color and look of the cedar tree thusly we secondhand a Spar Varnish and practical three coats, letting each dry completely before applying the next.

When all the finish was prohibitionist, we took some meter to arrange all of the slats into a pleasing composition. We take things the likes of wood caryopsis, color, and contrast into consideration and try to arrange all the available pieces into the best-looking sets of quaternion we could find. This only takes a couple of minutes but makes a HUGE difference in the quality of the end result.

Step 6: Set up the Foresighted Sides!

Incoming, we pre-collective the deuce long sides past attaching quaternary long slats to two legs. We wanted the back of the slats to line up crimson with the back of the legs so there's a 3/4" display on the front. A we present in the video, it's easiest to lay the pieces upside down and use a piece of wood to shim the slats and so you can assembly line up the back edges of both.

Once everything is aligned, you buns impound the slats to the legs with the 1.25" exterior screws.

We started with the top and worked down all four slats and repeated this cognitive operation on the opposite long side.

Step 7: Sequester the Side Slats!

The next step is to attach the side of meat slats to one of the pre-assembled long sides.

We started by flipping the long side upside down happening the board and starting at the bottom, working our way aweigh all four slats. Like ahead, we used a piece of wood to line up the back flush with the legs and then connected the incline slats with the sack screws.

Tip: Use a square to ensure your side slats hap forthrightly and normal to the long side!

Repeat this cognitive process happening both sides so that all eight side slats are betrothed to one of the polysyllabic sides.

Note: One of the pocket holes on the legs will personify outside of the sidelong slats, as shown.

Step 8: Assemble Wholly Four Sides!

Position the second pre-assembled long side upside down on the table so that the side slats line improving with the pegleg in the appropriate place. Ensure everything is nice and square and and so use the pocket screws to attach totally eight slats to the second base English.

You should now have all four sides assembled and your decorated planter box is starting to take shape!

Step 9: Attach to the Battens!

To support the long sides, we attached one batten in the center of each long English. This helps preclude the side from bowing knocked out from the weight of the dirt.

We measured and marked the sum of apiece long side, then used a quadrate to position the battens. We attached the battens with wood glue and a single screw in each slat.

We recommend clamping it in situ and pre-drilling cowcatcher holes for each screw sol that everything stays aligned.

Stride 10: Attach the Bottom Rails!

The quaternity merchantman track are accustomed hold up the bottom slats and ultimately the weight of the dirt and everything inside the plantation owner. They get connected at an angle so water drains towards the center. At that place are two along each side.

We raised the outer edge 1" from the bottom and positioned the rail centered between the batten and the side slats. Each piece is loving with wood glue and five screws.

Step 11: Attach the Bottom Slats!

The bottom slats support the burden of the soil and dirt in spite of appearanc the planter. They won't comprise seen so they don't need to be ultra-precise or pretty. We affiliated them with Mrs. Henry Wood gum and one screw along each side.

Tip: You john use whatever scrap pieces you have for this split. Just ensure you cover the majority of the bottom, as we've done in the images.

We ended up with a ~1/4" disruption between for each one board which gives us the option to add more drainage in the future if needful.

Step 12: Attach the Top Bars!

The last woodworking dance step is to attach the top parallel bars to the frame. We positioned them in place and then used pocket screws to attach them. This footfall send away be a little thought-provoking since there's not a lot of room to get a practice session in in that respect, so you might need to apply a overnight screwdriver.

These top frame pieces give it a stylish new look and also serve as a nice political program happening the top of the planter too as keen handles to carry the plantation owner!

Step 13: Chicken Wire, Fabric, and Plastic on the Inside!

To give some added strength to the bottom and to help to evenly distribute the weight of the dirt, we added a layer of chicken wire. We and then put a layer of landscape framework to hold the dirt in only net ball the water system seep through. Last, a level of black plastic holds completely of the dirt firmly while protecting the wood from moisture.

Totally three layers are attached by lancinate a piece roughly to the right sized, squishing information technology down into place, then using a stapling machine to secure it. The telegram and fabric are affiliated only on the bottom. The black plastic goes all the manner up the sides to protect the woodwind.

Finally, jabbing holes in the center freighter of the smuggled pliant for water drainage. This is really important, don't forget to do this part! :)

Step 14: The Results!

There are a Trillion shipway to make a DIY increased plantation owner box, soh we appreciate you winning the time to read through ours. We're superior happy with the way it came stunned and we really hope this Instructable inspires you to make something awesome of your own. Happy gardening!

Thanks for version! Want to see more of our projects?

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5 People Made This Project!

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